- At 0.1% reduces melanin synthesis by 80%
- At 10% eliminated age spots in 16 weeks
- At 3% in vivo reduces Delta-L value by 15% vs. placebo (22 people), a way to measure whitening effect
- Increases collagen synthesis at least twice as much as ascorbic acid
- Protects the cells against UV-B better than other esters of Vitamin C
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester which has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.
- Should be added into the oil phase of formulations at temperatures below 80°C (176°F)
- Can be used in formulas with a pH range of 3 to 6.
- Approved as a quasi-drug in Korea at 2%, and in Japan at 3%
- Approved as a functional ingredient for whitening at 2% in Korea
- Typical Usage: 0.5-3%, can be used up to 10%
- Appearance: Clear to pale yellow viscous liquid
- Solubility: Oil Soluble